Often, infants are held lovingly and tightly by a caring mother who thinks she can protect the baby if an accident occurs.

Sometimes a toddler is simply tied with a rope that binds the child to the parent’s body. In GuangZhou, as in most large Chinese cities, huge amounts of traffic create a world in itself and an energy of confusion and chaos which to a Westerner is not only frightening but seems life-threatening.

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The young hazel-eyed girl with golden ponytails gazes out the window of the van, “Look, mama, they do not have helmets on! And see that baby tied onto her mother?” Her blonde little sister, Fiona, yells, “There’s Chinese writing!” pointing to a huge red sign with black Chinese characters. Slightly removed from the chaos, housed in the blue metal van, the American girls feel safe to observe this busy Chinese city.

“There is a traditional Chinese building, see the roof, how it curves? That is because bad spirits go straight and good spirits don’t.

“I learned that on ‘Arthur’ on PBS!” states the oldest girl, Sofie. “I see Chinese writing!” yells Fiona again. The children are amazed at what they see out the window, so different from their home in Hood River, Ore., U.S.A.

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As the family turns onto an even busier street, the pedestrians and bikers stop to let the van pass since cars always have right of way. They stop at a large building with at least four floors and rows of huge windows. “Okay, here we are” their father says. As they climb out of the van, the Chinese driver rushes to help the children, taking their hands and smiling. He sneaks a photo with his phone to later show evidence of the new “meinguo ren” who moved to GuangZhou with their doll-like children.

People stare at the American family as they go to the doors of the restaurant. Many smile and touch the girls’ hair and say “Pioliang, Hen keai” (beautiful, so cute). The young girls, unaccustomed to be touched and stared at by strangers, grab their parents’ hands and hide behind their legs.

The family finally enters the seafood restaurant and the children are shocked, since it is filled with tanks of swimming fish! They move to get a better look and also notice containers of live snakes, turtles, crabs, eels and beetles. “What do they do with all these animals?” Sofie asks.

“Costumers choose ones they like and then the cooks prepare food for them.”

“They eat bugs and snakes?” the girl asks in shock.

“Yes, they do; but don’t worry, we won’t.” The youngest daughter starts to cry, “I don’t like it; what if they get out? Hold me!” Even though the mother assures her that they are safe, Fiona will not calm down, so they go upstairs to their private room, where a beautiful, large round table is set and tea is offered at the sofas.

The young girl then relaxes as she sees familiar faces; two men from Taiwan greet her warmly. “Fiona, do you like to see all the fish downstairs?”

“No!” she replies quickly. They all laugh since they understand this is a novelty for the child. “Let’s have some sugarcane juice,” they offer, and the girl settles down on one man’s lap and tastes the sweet thick cream-colored liquid.

“Yum” she says, and has another sip. Soon, her older sister, Sofie, bursts into the room, “I saw alligators, real live alligators! Their months were taped shut and they were laying on each other!”

Fiona’s face changes from a smile to a look of fear mixed with fascination.

“What are you drinking?” Sofie asks her sister. “Sugar juice! Try some.” The older sister tentatively tastes the juice and immediately grimaces. “Yuk!” One of the Asian men offers her another glass, “Try this orange juice then, Sofie.” She does and is much happier with something familiar in her month as if it grounds her after her “zoo-like” experience downstairs.

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Both Rob and I are well-traveled, yet still, China has presented many challenges. Life here can be exhausting and very exciting. The Chinese language is beautiful and melodic with simple grammar, no tenses or gender. The problem lies in the pronunciation.

Even after practicing a word repeatedly, trying to get the correct tone and rhythm, people still do not understand me!

Chinese food is delicious, and extremely fresh and healthy. Every meal contains vegetables bought that day and ends with fresh fruit for dessert (even breakfast). “Seafood restaurant” as described above, means the selection of seafood is all alive. In China, if you ask for water to drink, you are always served a cup of hot water; this is considered very healthy, especially for women. Green tea is the drink of choice and varies greatly in taste and texture (and cost!) depending on the tea and depending on the “pour.”

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Now after three months, we are getting accustomed to our life here in China and driving is no longer such a frightening experience. We all, even our daughters, are trying new foods, and finding the Chinese to be a warm, interesting, and complex people who I will never completely understand.